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 The models by him will never get outdate because it is beyond of any fashion
trends. In the opinion of the Couturier his models are timeless. Yohji came from Japan; traditionally he went in for karate, observed Japanese cherry tree blooming and perceived existence philosophically, all staff a real Japanese man should do in his life. But he never lost himself in the European life style, he also collects wine, listens to rock-n-roll, and prefers fast riding and
loves being lazy. In 1988 Yohji recorded an album together with Yukihiro Takahashi,
and two years later he had his first solo concert that was a boom. He
starred in the legendary movie Dolls by Takeshi Kitano and made all costumes
for all the movie characters. He is the only designer who is not member to the
Haute Couture Association.
His
signature is like a slap in the face of the world fashion. Yamamoto is a child
of war and atomic morning, cherry tree pink leaves and aggressive samurai calls.
He is not a red, it is the way he lives.
Yohji
Yamamoto was born on October 3, 1943
in Tokyo, in the full swing of the World War II. When a
boy was two years old his father was killed at the war for the military Japan. The
life suspended in his family, they faced the threat of hunger, miseries and
consequently the death. But the mother who was a severe and strong-willed woman
tough by war losses decided to resist the fate. Once in the widow's weed, with
her tears dried and her lips pressed, she raised her children alone always
sewing. And it was his mother who taught Yohji to cut and black color of her
attire was fixed in his mind for ages.
Yamamoto
studied English language for several years at the University of Nirrona and
after he was accepted at the Keyo University with a degree in law, as the most
prestigious institution. He graduated the University in 1966 and later the
designer came to an ultimate decision that law is not his path, the thing he
needs is fashion only, and thus he entered the proper college of Japan, Bunka
Fukuso Gakuin design school.
In 1972 Yohji
Yamamoto presented his first women wear collection in Tokyo under the name
Y's, and he brought out a higher-priced signature label nine years later in
Paris. That was the scandal! Dragging around, shapeless silhouettes, asceticism
expressed in decorations, undone hems, «incomplete» trimming... and this black
color like a symbol, as a tragedy, as... parody? Smarty-pants tried to make fun
that it is like a flock of crows at the stage. And where they are, and who is
Yamamoto now?
In 1977 Yohji
launched his first collection of clothes in Tokyo under his own name - Yohji
Yamamoto. And the remarkable thing - the same mouse-bite edges, worn fabric, queen-sizes,
all crystallized avant-garde. And the designer wins popularity with the bohemia,
he is considered as intellectual provoker. And the quarrelsome Jack Nicholson,
Duran Duran in full staff adored his models.
Yohji
Yamamoto had his first show in Paris in 1981 and the fashion world failed to
accept him. The reaction of critics was extremely negative, «These flaps
resemble the clothes survived after the atomic explosion and they shout of the
end of the world». However the designer becomes a legend without positive
feedback of critics; he does not need to seek for attention of fickle public
and nagging connoisseurs.
In 1984 the
designer presented the line of men's wear. «The clothes is to cover not
decorate a man», were the words of the true samurai Yamamoto in regards to
fashion trends for the stronger sex.
Yamamoto
made costumes for the opera «Madam Butterfly» (Chio-Chio San) in 1989, and in
1993 he created a stage image Wagner's opera Tristan and Isolde.
Since then Yamamoto
received more than hundred awards from various Fashion Unions and Congresses,
and in 1994 Yohji became Chevalier de l'Ordre des Arts et Lettres of France.
And then,
he got sick with everything. He thought of quitting the fashion and becoming a
gangster or actor... a real hooligan from high society. Eventually he decided to change something inside himself.
A new Yamamoto
is new colors, new silhouettes, and new cuts. But still, the same vision of
world, the same avan-garde. His dresses are expressed in cascades of fabric, models
wrapped in cocoons. And extremity is always presented in his works, «Symmetry
is an ideal state but it is not typical to a human being». As for the work
outfit, «We always look nicely, when working». And, certainly, a school outfit is
symbolic clothes for the Japanese.
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