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 The history
of handkerchiefs, however, dates back thousands of years. The actors in the Ancient
Rome in the II century AD. used white handkerchiefs playing comedies and satyrs.
And the audience in the tribunes used to wave the handkerchiefs during games.
In the
Middle Ages ladies presented men with their handkerchiefs to show their favor. Decorated
with luxury embroidery, silver and golden fibers and fringes, the handkerchiefs
were practiced to perform church and coronation ceremonies. However, the bloom
of vogue occurred during the Renaissance. And handkerchiefs had become an
essential part of any upscale wardrobe.
That time Italy
and Spain were standards of fashion for the rest Europe. The way the natives of
Venice and Madrid wear was widely replicated throughout the world, however,
experiencing some sea changes. And the whole costume depended on the cut and
style.
Then women wore
girdles, and to the XV century the fashion comes to the frame skirts - vertyugali.
That affected the plasticity as well. Ladies almost lost their ability to move,
constrained with their splendid attires from golden velvet decorated with gold
laces and precious stones. Besides, such a concept as etiquette appears with
establishment of the world states and royal houses.
There was the
system of signs to express this or that wish, and one of the elements of this
system was a handkerchief.
This is not
only an expensive accessory but also the symbol of wealth. The point is that handkerchiefs
were produced from the rather expensive and very fashionable fabric, namely - lanolawn.
It was the idea of a Venetian lady to cut a square out of pure flax and then
decorate it with lace. She showed it to the people in a public garden, where
the delicate handkerchief excited the general curiosity of the onlookers. Thus,
the needle lacing was created. By time this technique was improved and new
motives for embroidery appeared and were applied. And gradually, the entire
Venice fell in love with these laced handkerchiefs which cost a fortune
irrespective of widely use.
The history
of handkerchiefs closely connected with the history of embroidery and lace.
Therefore, when in the XVII century bobbin lacing got popular, the practice of
making handkerchiefs by this technique was spread. This was the simpler and cheaper
method of production, while outcome was more elegant. Nevertheless, this
accessory was affordable to noble persons only.
The
handkerchief is also an indispensable part of any stylish woman's wardrobe. Tastes
of individuals at the end of the XVII-XVIII century dictated their style. They
were oval, round or oblongate. And this trend was put to its end only in 1685 when
the King Ludwig XIV decided that the «length of a handkerchief should be equal
to its width which is effective in the territory of the whole kingdom". And
since that time a small square piece of cloth remains the adopted form for
handkerchiefs.
The fashion
for handkerchiefs in America was quite similar to that in Europe. Love of colonial
women to the square laced handkerchiefs is of the same effect as that of their
cousins residing over the Atlantic Ocean. The fashion touched the linen, silky
and laced handkerchiefs for both men and women. Quaker Women living in
Pennsylvania were considered to have white handkerchiefs as a must accessory to
complete a women costume.
Previously
handkerchiefs were made from fine linolawn and decorated with embroidery by one
and the same scheme, thus empty center of the handkerchief is framed by a wide fringe
at edges. Combination of the satin stitch technique and open-work allow a
variety of options to develop the pattern structures. Ornamental motives
include combination of geometry and plant forms. The influence of the Eastern
theme is seen in some models. Elegance of patterns and skilled performance are
incident to all models. This time Europe experiences the real flourishing of linen
pieces of work.
When Napoleon
came to power, Jozephina announced handkerchiefs in vogue. Taletellers said that
the Empress held her laced handkerchief at her lips to show her disapproval
when talking to unwelcome court.
Handkerchiefs
with colorful trimming and trimmed corners at the edges were very popular in
England. Primarily this fashion came from the Gothic. Young ladies had their pocket
handkerchiefs trimmed with narrow piece of lace or colorful embroidery. The
French considered handicraft embroidery or laces on handkerchiefs as the
important element of every well-dressed styled woman. Reforming of dresses that
took place in Germany vouched for production of any garment from wool, even
handkerchiefs. This is the only case in history when such an accessory was manufactured
in wool.
Handkerchiefs
for men, as well as other men's costume garments, tend to get simpler and not
so chick. While women liked handkerchiefs with embroidery and laces, men
announced their decision towards contrary. Handkerchiefs were large, approximately
of 40 cm
with simple trimming at the edge and with occasional monogram in the corner.
White linen was always respected in public, though fashion allowed some color
to complete this accessory.
In the XX century
when ready-made clothes got popular, handkerchiefs still were sorted for men
and women. Handkerchiefs for men were larger in size and less elegant unlike
those for women. In the second part of the XX century disposable cotton
handkerchiefs were put to production that brought the centuries-old vogue to
oblivion.
To the
discerning gentleman and woman, the splash of color and style is classic,
fashionable and functional. The handkerchief is truly a timeless
accessory.
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