|
 Women are
vainglorious? Who says so? Still, the most hincty woman finds it hard to vie
with an average man. Unluckily, men were fairly difficult to express their
vanity for the last hundred years showing dandyism in cloths, unlike past times
from the early Byzantine epoch to the times of Biedermeier style. Whereupon the
actual supremacy of dead-level, sobriety, grey and black shades of fabric was
formed. Though, there were redingotes, tailcoats, silk hats, somewhere we could
see a florid-like vests, however men experienced lack of play to reveal their personality.
Tuxedo was invented
in the epoch of the Victorian England and was designed for smoking purposes actually.
Gentlemen used to retire to a separate parlor in this jacket to go smoking and
to have some whisky making laugh at the latest fun stories. They used to wear
this jacket onto their upper cloths that prevented the noxious fumes from
sticking to their other clothes and offending the women when the men returned
to mixed company. The author of the handbook «Socialite» dated 1913 expressed
his regrets that recently the tuxedo gets trendy as an official outfit while
only the tailcoat is the most appropriate and adequate kind of wear for
banquettes, first nights at top theaters and balls. Whereas the evidence of
high elegance was a gardenia in the buttonhole and an eye-glass, the tailscoat
symbolizes a particular world position. Men, with a few exceptions, do not wear
tails, while tuxedo finds favor with more and more men. Yet, some designers
believe that «a jacket for smokers» will get a high success for longer time.
And in the year 1980 that opinion was proved out by plugging semifitted
double-breasted coat, sports style lapels replacing shawl collar; straight or
too tight trousers; white shirt made from cotton lawn or China silk, small collar,
bow tie or narrow band tied in bow.
During the first
post-war times the men's suits were only in dark and black colors. Later on,
these dreadful silver-like ties were invented. In the end of 50s the so called
‘'polo'' from silky hosiery rushed over available to the men's demand. And some
persons still have a thing to them, indeed.
With more
leisure time there were sea changes in fashion, of course, so far it lost some
of its Victorianism but changed for more comfort, it became less arty-farty and
more affordable. And definitely, off duty and official functions.
In the
times before the First and Second World Wars dandies could tell against the
entire mass by applying some nuances. A tie, as it is stated in the handbook «Socialite»
appears to be the first and probably the only chance of aristocrats to add some
buoyant motley throughout the fashion code that dictated only humble dark
colors.
Till the
year 1914 the outfits exhibited colors, style and cutting out of eccentric
nature. Just recollect inexhaustible imagination of the Emperor Wilhelm II. All
these trends sank fall into oblivion. Men of thirties looked not as much as
attractive as them at the age of their fathers. They quit wearing long beards,
however thin handlebar moustache were rare as well. There was no feeling of
zest. Ladies' men were clean-shaven; the length of hair is short not to reach
the collar, grey trousers of soft wool fabric. If and when necessary they wore
English tweed coats well with fine striped shirt; and definitely, starched
collar and tie from heavy silk with kiddo patterns. Ties of light shades were
not allowable as well as shoes of pastel colors. Narrow leather belt, leather
band watches (and in no other way from alligator skin!) and, as the only
jewelry, fairly plain golden collar pin was allowed. And nothing in the
buttonhole! And the handkerchief is desirably twisted and hardly looked out of
the hole but not folded. Alternatively they were afforded to coats from sheer
woolen fabric with a vague check pattern; olive tweed coats; a tie is larger,
more motley and striped of dark-blue or green color and a derby. As a must,
elegant men used to wear short hand-fitted mittens of hog-leather, and sometimes
a skirt of the color of old rose.
Some time
ago in-between-season coats were in great favor. And the only slightly washed-out
and strapped raincoat with secret buttons plus a boyish felt hat tilted over
eyes. It sounds funny but the fashion appeared to be very ridiculous is not
more absurd than a man looks with the shirt undone revealing a tanned chest
with a medallion dangling from the golden chain.
As for
shoes, dark-brown either black shoes were greatly requested, moreover, handmade
and by individual measures. And those who wore such shoes have them shined with
brushes.
Winners of
the women hearts appear at tennis courts in long white trousers together with
the blouse or silk shirt and a scarf to replace the tie casually tied below the
Adam's apple and appearing from under the collar of the shirt. Of low thought was
unbuttoned and spread collar. And such style was deemed jesting. However a
sporty couple looked not so chick as modern guys.
Men's
accessories including keys, a wallet, a silver snuffbox, a lighter and a
porte-monnaie for coins to give tips, once they were all seat in the pockets of
the trousers and they never looked bulged. Incredible but fact.
And finally
you always remember: all loved by fathers is neglected by sons but enjoyed by
grandsons.
|
