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 The first aldehyde
perfume created by the legendary perfumer Ernest Beaux was triumphant enough to make
any fashion house winning, though Coco Chanel was the one who realized the
triumph and glory of that scent, strong and concentrated. She launched her own aldehyde
perfume Chanel №5 which became the legendary fragrance of the epoch, the epoch
of synthetic scents to become the vintage one for now. Today most perfumers
talk about natural components they prefer to use for their fragrances, though
aldehyde scents are still demanded being on the top of ratings for over one
hundred years enjoyed by most women of the world.
The way
aldehyde perfume appeared
A range of
discoveries were taken before the aldehyde fragrances glorified. Till 1889 all fragrances
were based on natural components by the complex technologies used which made
the price higher. Later on, in the 19th century the chemists learned
how to analyze the scents and initiated researches which were successful to
bring the first new synthetic scent in 1874 - the scent of vanilla. Soon after,
the researchers discovered the coumarin, which is the synthetic note of the
green fern. In 1884 the musk was discovered for the wide public. The well-known
perfumers as Guerlain
and Hobigan experimented with new substances and gradually launched
the first half-synthetic perfume Jicky based on sandal wood and coumarin. To add
some lily odor for Quelques Fleurs, Hobigan used the chemical in 1912 named as hydroxycitronellol
and ten years later the absolutely synthetic fragrance was launched, and that
was Chanel №5.
Coco Chanel
faced against the other, the well-known perfumer Ernest Beaux in 1920 who worked
for Rallet in Grasse
for many years in Provance, the sacred place for most perfumers. Beaux elaborated
the new formula which was offered to the most reputed perfumeries of the time,
the Coty. When the company learnt the price of the product, it refused to
manufacture the cheap item. Coco Chanel showed the extremely different opinion.
She was sure she was looking for the delicate and refined scent to initiate her
own perfume story. And the parties concluded that Beaux continued his
elaborations with the prototype.
The basic components
were may rose, ylang-ylang, jasmine, viverra, neroli, and musk with the notes
of vanilla and wood. When Beaux added some aldehydes, Chanel №5 turned into the
scent we know today with the typical synthetic scent. Since then the perfume has
been put to mass production.
What is
aldehyde?
Aldehydes are
known as chemicals with the concentrated odor of the rancid butter though they
smell as flower when they are diluted properly. The aldehyde fragrances are
exceptional since the perfume smells differently from person to person,
depending on the smell of the body of the particular person while contacting.
The aldehydes also add some richer nuances to some notes of the composition and
they can work to imitate some natural smells as rare rose compositions, costly
species from the East.
Aroma of
aldehyde fragrances
It is fairly
difficult to differ between the aldehyde and powdery, chypre and oriental
scents, though each of them can show differences. As the reputed perfumers
state, aldehyde fragrances come as heavy and oily as the odor that comes from
the candle blown out. The fragrances that proved to be classic like Jicky,
Chanel №5, Climat Lancome and Madame Rochas, live in neighbourhood with quite
young scents as the nice First by Van Cleef & Arpels, Armani Mania by Armani
loved by millions of women, the stunning cologne Aqua Pour Homme Marine by Bvlgari,
and the fascinating White Linen by Estee Lauder.
On the top
of it, the group of aldehyde perfume welcomes new Spirit for Men byAntonio
Banderas with the vivid and masculine scent of fresh and green woods. One of
aldehyde fragrances for women is Azzaro high tech duo: Now Women and Now Men. Azzaro Now Women based on two basic
accords of the composition, that is relaxed and vibrant white tea at the top,
aldehydes, jasmine Tahitian Tiare and aquatic notes in the heart, with the base
composed of rose wood, light wood, amber and rum. The perfume
was created by Annie Buzantian in collaboration with Alberto Morillas.
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