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 Lately, essential
oils are finding frequent use in modern cosmetology and medicine. The most
notable among them is patchouli oil. Patchouli (pogostemon cablin) originated
from Malaysia but has been used traditionally by a number of Asian countries;
it was used to scent clothes and laundry, in the belief it would help prevent
disease. The name «patchouli» comes from the name of a tree growing in India,
the leaves of which have specific «oriental» odor which is characteristic of
several different plants, growing in Indonesia. It has also been used in the
treatment of nausea, headaches, colds, abdominal pain and diarrhea. In traditional
Chinese medicine, the dried leaves and stems of patchouli are used to normalize
the flow and balance of «chi».
Patchouli
has even been used to treat poisonous snake bites in Malaysia and Japan. Today,
patchouli is cultivated in Malaysia as well as China, India, the West Indies
and South America as well as in some parts of Japan, Brazil, Mauritius Island and
Tanganyika; the USA and Europe distill its dried leaves to make the essential
oil. The leaves are often fermented to weaken the leaf cell walls to produce a
better yield.
Therefore,
one can say with certainty that the name «patchouli» refers to the smell, but
not to a particular plant. The most important is the so-called Pogostemon
cablin Benth. (syn. Pogostemon patchouli Pellet. var. suavis Hook.), growing in
Indonesia. Pogostemon heyneanus Benth., called Yava patchouli grows on the
island of Java.
Chemical Composition
The main
substance of patchouli is patchouli alcohol (patchoulol) which gives the oil
its peculiar «oriental» aroma. The essential oil should contain not less than
30% of patchoulol. The higher is patchoulol content, the higher is the quality of
patchouli oil. After extensive distillation, a portion of the alcohol is transformed
into sesquiterpene hydrocarbons, α-patchoulene and β-patchoulene, which
significantly impair the quality of oil. Therefore, the duration of the process
is strictly monitored. However, adulteration of patchouli is less common than
with other essential oils. The relative ease of its cultivation and generous
yield of oil (up to 3.5% under ideal conditions) substantially removes the
temptation for unscrupulous suppliers to adulterate it. Heavy cedarwood or
spicy clove-like notes may indicate that patchouli oil has been tampered with,
usually as a result of a bad crop year or when demand outweighs supply.
Beneficial
Properties
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Antidepressant. The bright, sensuous fragrance of patchouli essential oil helps
to overcome the effects of prolonged stress and cope with life's difficulties.
The aroma of patchouli brings people back to normal life, restores mental
balance, and fills with optimism and faith in their abilities. The warmth and
depth of its aroma make it comforting and relaxing.
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Antiseptic, antihistamine, antioxidant. Patchouli oil has been successfully
used for skin care of any type. With regular use, you can get rid of wrinkles,
acne rashes, made scars less noticeable, tone sagging and ageing skin, get rid
of cellulite. Also, you can restore weak and damaged hair to healthy condition,
and treat dandruff.
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Immune
response modifier. Patchouli is also used for vitamin deficiency and weakened
immunity treatment, for prevention of influenza, colds, tonsillitis. Patchouli essential
oil can also be used for body correction as its aroma helps to weaken appetite
and improve digestion.
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Aphrodisiac. Patchouli oil is a powerful stimulant and has been long known for
its ability to reveal woman's sensuality and enhance man' sexual potency. Patchouli's
relaxing attributes, coupled with its rich and exotic nature, have led to its
inclusion in sensual and amorous blends, particularly appropriate for products
like massage oil. Patchouli's distinctive scent can always be relied upon to
evoke a marked aromatherapeutic response.
Patchouli
oil is used in perfumery. One cannot find a high quality perfume with rich oriental
scent, which does not contain patchouli oil. The oil is said to mature with age
and it is either profoundly liked or disliked by people, due to its tendency to
linger. In the ancient times in the East patchouli oil was believed to have
magical properties, to attract wealth, love, bring success in private and
business affairs and enhance creativity.
Use of
Patchouli Oil
Patchouli
oil can be used in different ways: in aromatherapy lamps, aromatherapy
medallions, aromatherapy baths, as a massage oil (60 drops per 100 ml of base
liquid) and for the enrichment of cosmetics products. Also, it can be used as
an additive to candle wax and tobacco blends. A few drops of patchouli essential
oil can be added to shampoo or face cream, and after a few days, the skin
becomes soft and velvety, and the hair thick and shiny.
Moreover,
patchouli oil can be ingested, but with great caution. In the absence of
gastric diseases and other medical contraindications you can eat jam or honey
with the addition of 1-2 drops of patchouli oil.
Patchouli oil cannot be taken during pregnancy. Also, do not combine it with turpentine
oils (cinnamon oil, juniper oil, etc.).
Where Does
Patchouli Come From?
Patchouli
oil is steam distilled from the patchouli leaves. Before distillation takes
place the leaves are partially dried, stacked and bailed. This causes a slight
fermentation which weakens the microscopic oil-bearing cell walls, thus
ensuring a greater yield of oil from the distillation (about 3%), while using
fresh leaves the yield is much smaller.
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