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 The Perfume:
The Story of a Murderer shot in 2006 is about Jean-Baptiste Grenouille who was
a great perfumer with the perfect nose. He has the talent on scent. The history
of his birth is tragic when his mother delivered him in the stinky
fish-smelling street and was executed for running and leaving him. Yet, the one
born in the street possesses a superior sense to create the finest perfume in
the world. What has been the formula for such success? What is the most crucial
about the scent? A single human being has their own scent unique to be the only
one identified in nature. And a human without his scent is nothing, as the film
tells us.
Thus, a
nose able to recognize scents is the perfect tool to create delicate fragrances
to compete today. Mixing just components is not enough to make perfume. Mostly the
perfumer, apart from having sensitive nose, should be well-educated having a
smell history in the load as well as the capacity to blend scents in mind
creating various fragrances as well as chemists can do equations in mind.
What About The
«Nose»?
«Nose»
is a person in France who tests scents just smelling them. To identify various smells just nose avail is not
enough, the talent is needed. The
professionals state that any nose should have been briefed prior to
professional testing. The briefing is aimed to memorizing a huge number of
scents and notes, the study lasts from five to six years and the perfumer employs
the acquired skills and gains experience in process of further work possessing
the load of aromas he will not forget any longer.
The sense
of smell with noses is no better than that with the average person. They are just
proficient to detail nuances, the notes and analyze the accords they smell and
imagine the possible blends. So, non-professional is able to smell out vanilla,
citric notes, rose and jasmine, for example, while the professional nose can
specify whether the rose is green or mature, the maturity and kind of citric
fruit, the kind of vanilla and place where it is planted.
With the
appropriate load of scents, the specialist is able to smell and remember up to
tow thousand scents and nuance. However, it is not done for year; they also
need to practice to consolidate.
Deeply in the
magic of scents, the professional nose has to comprehend the entire
technological process of scent preparation with replacing of natural components
for synthetic ones with all potential outcomes. Moreover, the practiced
perfumer should have a finger in the cost for components since the end purpose
of perfume making is selling it.
Scent Creation
As soon as
any fashion house or a cosmetic company customs for fragrance to be made, the
perfumer comes to the long-lasting investigation and searches. The ready
product contains from thirty to fifty possible ether components, on the
average. There are fragrances with over one hundred components to make it.
The first
step is to create the testing or base sample. The base is used for various
tests with concentration of components changed and so forth. At this stage the
perfumer tests the time stability of the scent, how it changes, why and in mix
of other components.
Then the
acquired concentrate is left to get mature for several weeks. In the meantime
the scent gets another deeper feeling when all notes get open. It is cooled and filtered for purity.
At this stage coloring agents
are added, if necessary, to give richer look. In practice the perfume is not
colored since the shade is made with the color of the basic components.
When the
final formula is found competing, the next stage is started. At this stage the value
of every single component is appraised to identify the way they accord in
concert with finest nuances. This is the longest and laborious task requiring thorough
knowledge and ideal smell and vision.
Third stage
is the adoption of the scent to the technological demands. So, the bunch of
aroma is designed to add to the shower gel, soap, cream or Eau de cologne. And the
nose precisely catches the difference between the open notes and base or heart
notes for various products. They seem customary for ordinary persons, though.
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