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The Byzantine attire was created in the times when the Christianity made
the first world achievements and distinguished with its astonishing asceticism and
constant expectation of a miracle. All Christian wonders have a spirit as a source
but not the body, and the Byzantine attire is fully penetrated with the idea to
emphasize the spirit masking the body. It is interesting that when advocating the
rejection of material benefits and announcing the world of sensitiveness as the
world of vice and sin Byzantine put intentionally luxury attire onto the asceticism.
The Byzantine attire is the intensified decoration, rich and luxury fabric,
embroidery and luxury patterns and deep colors and abundance of jewelry.
Nevertheless, this intense and vivid beauty was to serve for the only
goal that is to conceal the sinful body, sensitivity typical to every human
being. The most essential part is the face, and the luxury of the Byzantine attire
is only a frame for the spirituality expressed in the human face. This fact determines
the apparent contradiction of the Byzantine attire between the intentional
luxury and expressed asceticism when luxury is the frame for the spirituality,
while the spirituality may robe luxury attires, and this only proves its value.
Moreover, the spirituality requires lavish attires, the same as the precious
stone needs the appropriate trimming. And yet, the astonishing pompousness of
the Byzantine ecclesiastical robes and ceremonies are notable.
The shape of the Byzantine attire is determined with fabric, from heavy
wool to silk and brocade. The fabric was solid and not at all elastic. The fabric
was weaved or embroidered in metal threads and precious stones and here we
should note that when one wears Byzantine attire, he should be of a good
physical state to hold the heaviness of the fabric full of stones and metal. The
Byzantine Empire was always reputed for its
golden brocade with patterns and golden altabas resembling a thin metal sheet. This
textile was used to manufacture various edging, stripes, neckpieces, trimming
and decorative elements. They were also used to tailor suits for noble people.
However, the lightest, softest and sheer fabric was also used in Byzantine.
Though, the fabrics were designed for women veils to cover the head. And why?
Because that sensitive element should becovered,
again. And these charming, and quite glittering
tissue of veils and shawls, unlike the heavy and embroidered attires, added some
unearthly beauty to a woman which is only associated with spirituality. These
were the ascetic images, close to heavenly than to the earthy world.
Rigid fabric is suitable to create the only square case. The Byzantine attire
is famous for its straight lines, and its cut is distinguished with a rare
simplicity, especially compared with the unique richness of fabric. Straight vertical
lines of the Byzantine attire fully hide the lines of a human body, whether of
man or of woman, leaving just a face. No wais line, no thigh lines, and exclusively
the harsh sincerity that impenetrably covers the body. The ratio of the width
of the clothes to the height is one to third, while the size of the head to the
height is 1:6.5. It is apparent that when using the ratio only the rectangle
silhouette may be produced.
We should note, though, that even with all that heavy weight and
straight lines of the shape, the Byzantine attire was splendid. It was monumental and ceremonial.
And the lightness was notrequired for the attire. It would be the same if we required light and smooth
movements from telamons.
The fabric that appeared to be the genuine work of art, gave some
unearthly charm and aura to Byzantine attires and the straight lines of the
silhouettes looked majestic. On the top of it, this magnificence was highlighted
with movements and walking of the person wearing the Byzantine attire. The point
is that the Byzantine attire was really heavy and held the movements, and,
thus, this is the reason of monumental grandeur of every gesture.
The Byzantine
attire is the sketchy character of the person, the accent onto one constituent
part of the human, and this is more the symbol of spirituality than attire.
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