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Crinoline, Whether be Used or Neglected?

Sunday, 03 October 2010

CrinolineCrinoline is the construction made especially to correct the shapes of a woman in compliance with the fashion tendencies. That was fashionable some time back but not now. Today fashion is not requiring, it recommends and advises but not requires. And in present the crinoline is the garment to see as the detail of the wedding or evening gowns, or at the Fashion Week Shows. This is quite uncomfortable garment to prefer for every day considering the rhythm and speed of life which are priority today.

Despite the proved fact that the crinoline outdated for ever, fashion designers with a regular insistence keep on launching skirts defined by the structure of crinoline. And these are notonly evening dresses. The petticoat aka underskirt is used as a frame with wide mini skirts and dresses with high waist line, with long skirts which are wide and taper to the bottom and even with coat tailoring. The collections autumn-winter 2009-2010 the crinoline was used at fashion shows by such reputed brands as Chanel, Elie Saab, Christian Lacroix, Valentino and many others.

Throughout the age of life, the shape, length and width of the crinoline changed influenced by the fashion.

The compensating case first appeared in the late XVI century in Spain. The structure was called vertugado and it was designed for other purposes than to emphasize the beauty of women shapes. On the contrary, the vertugado was assigned to conceal the shapes gifted by nature to a woman. Zoot sides of skirts were supported with the help of metal hoops with the textile tightly stretched onto it.

It is obvious that such an artificial shape dictated first by the strict Catholicism practiced in Spain would not survive for long. The Netherlands, with its tendency to simplicity and nature renders a considerable affect onto the European fashion in the first half of the XVII century. The skirts supported by the metal hoops gave the floor to plain dresses of simple tailoring.

Nevertheless, the time of nature trends come to the end so soon and to the end of the XVII century the skirts again come as fixed and frozen. The French high society subject to the tendencies adopted in Spain introduces metal case again. Therewith, vertugado is made from wood or whalebone. Such a simplified model is called pannier in France, fischbine in Germany and farthingale in Russia.

The period of the XVIII century is transitional between baroque and rococo styles which introduce new and fresh Oriental tendencies. Soft and tender, flowing down fabric is in. The qualities of the fabric determines the style of wear and the skirt attached to the metal hoop sinks in oblivion for ever. And this is forever, this time.

The following periods are known for the favor for antique fashion, late rococo and Empire style with trendy dresses with high waist line followed by the romanticism. A slim waist is in again coming along with the girdle and a wide skirt. Plain underskirts are not enough to ensure the appropriate fashionable fluffiness and in 1850 the special steel or waterbone wide hoops are sewed into the skirt and the crinoline is revived again!

Crinolines change and modify and in the soonest time we see the variety of kinds of them. They come puffy for evening wear and simple for every day wear, crinolines on suspenders for dresses with high waistline, crinolines with the lacing on the back which become the farthingale in the end.

By the end of the XIX century a wide skirts with even sides and edges outdate and the crinoline loses the popularity. The skirts with ruffles on the back are in with flounces and tails, along with the bustle, the pads put under the skirt from the back.

However, in spite of log epoch of crinoline, it is the simplest, easiest and effective way to make a skirt wider to the desirable extent and emphasize the waistline. And it is always in for this reason as well as vertugado farthingale or a bustle to be widely used in fashion to our days.

The gorgeous structures of crinoline are appropriate for the wedding event only and the accurate and tiny one to support the cocktail dress will be the great tool to look attractive and feminine in most events.

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