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 In our time everything is already discovered and invented by
someone else, and all we have to do is look for ideas in the past and reinvent
them given today's conditions, playing with the ingenious ideas of the great
masters. It's no revelation that fashion goes in cycles. And though fashion
weeks attract big audience every year, there's no denying the fact that most
collections are only recreating fashion trends from earlier periods. 1920s were
one of the turning points in the history of fashion which gave 20th century
many of its greatest highlights in clothing, jewelry and makeup.
In the 1920s, a new woman was born. She smoked, drank,
danced, and voted. She cut her hair, wore make-up, and went to petting
parties.
She was giddy and took risks. She was a flapper. The term «flapper»
first
appeared in Great Britain after World War I. It was there used to
describe
young girls, still somewhat awkward in movement who had not yet entered
womanhood.
The flapper attitude was characterized by stark
truthfulness, fast living, and sexual behavior. Flappers seemed to cling
to
youth as if it were to leave them at any moment. They took risks and
were
reckless. They wanted to be different, to announce their departure from
the
Gibson Girl's morals. So they smoked. Something only men had done
previously.
Flappers also began taking work outside the home and
challenging women's traditional societal roles. They also advocated
voting and
women's rights. With time came the development of dance styles then
considered
shocking, such as the Charleston, the Shimmy, the Bunny Hug and the
Black
Bottom.
Frail and Brave
In addition to their irreverent behavior flappers were known
for their style, which largely emerged as a result of French fashions,
especially those pioneered by Coco Chanel; and by the effect on dress of
the
rapid spread of American jazz and the popularization of dancing that
accompanied it. Called garconne in French («boy» with a feminine
suffix),
flapper style made them look young and boyish. Short hair, flattened
breasts,
and straight waists accentuated the look.
Despite all the scandal flappers generated, their look
became fashionable in a toned-down form among even respectable older
women.
Most significantly, the flappers removed the corset from female fashion,
raised
skirt and gown hemlines and popularized short hair for women.
The skirt came just an inch below flapper's knees,
overlapping by a faint fraction her rolled and twisted stockings. The
idea is
that when she walks in a bit of a breeze, you shall now and then observe
the
knee (which is not rouged - that's just newspaper talk) but always in an
accidental, Venus-surprised-at-the-bath sort of way.
Strict and Emancipated
The flapper look required heavy makeup in comparison to what
had been acceptable. With the invention of the metal lipstick container
as well
as compact mirrors bee stung lips came into vogue. Dark eyes, especially
Kohl-rimmed, were the style. Blush came into vogue now that it was no
longer a
messy application process.
Originally, pale skin was considered most attractive.
However, tanned skin became increasingly popular after Coco Chanel
donned a tan
after spending too much time in the sun on holiday - it suggested a life
of
leisure, without the onerous need to work. Women wanted to look fit,
sporty,
and, above all, healthy.
Boyish cuts were in vogue, especially the Bob cut, Eton
crop, and Shingle bob. Finger Waving was used as a means of styling.
Hats were
still required wear and popular styles included the Newsboy cap and
Cloche hat.
Jewelry usually consisted of art deco pieces, especially
many layers of beaded necklaces. Pins, rings, and brooches came into
style.
Horn-rimmed glasses were also popular.
Flappers did away with corsets and pantaloons in favor of «step-in»
panties. Without the old restrictive corsets, flappers wore simple bust
bodices
to make their chest hold still when dancing. Without the added curves of
a
corset they promoted their boyish look, and soon early popular bras were
sold
to flatten and reduce the appearance of the bust.
Present day designers occasionally turn to flapper style for
inspiration, and the runways of Europe hear the rustling of flappers'
short
dresses and imagine the era when women went though life to the sounds of
jazz
holding high their pretty heads with trendy bobs.
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