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 The Second World
War swept off not only millions of lives and national boundaries but the length
of the skirt as well. And if the former was a tragedy, the latter became a true
blessing. One should think - famine and wasteland, deprivation, people could
hardly survive... But when did women relinquish their love for the fashion? And could
any war totally eradicate fashion trends? Throughout the human history, it
never happened. And Coco Chanel, anticipating the wind of change and sensitive
to the slightest variation of style and fashion, in 1926 designed a true masterpiece
- a little black dress, a token of mourning upon the passed long skirts and intricate
attire cuts, and at the same time - a salute to the new lifestyle.
A little black
dress satisfied all possible requirements to clothes which could be predicted
in the far 1926; it was made of the minimum amount of fabric (war and revolutionary
shock waves took their tall on textile industry); it served as an evening attire
and as a dress for office; it was tempered
virtually to every possible hairdo of any hair length (and most importantly
with short sleek hair popularized by Rudolpho Valentino); it involved low expenses
and could be made of any fabric, either cheap or expensive, and worn with or
without accessories.
A little black
dress went off with a bang - sure, it had lots of advantages with minimum
limitations. American fashion magazine Vogue, which predicted forthcoming of a sort
of uniform for all women of taste, simple and elegant, modern and versatile,
called it La Ford
- comparing it with the most popular car model. The comparison was more than reasonable:
both Ford and little black dress impersonated one and the same -
up-to-dateness, smartness and friendliness.
The first little
black dress designed by Coco Chanel preserved some conservatism of the early XX
century and its tendency for decoration. It was calf-length, made of black crepe-de-chine
and decorated by diagonal lines of embroidery. Long fitted sleeves were essential
for the dress. Length was also classical - mid-knee high, a Chanel's favorite. According
to Coco Canel, knees always messed up the impression of woman's figure, so that
was the reason to hide them. This length became canonic - a minimum of the possible.
A little higher - and knees are seen, a little lower - and this is not a «little»
dress.
A little black
dress has immediately won a place in the wardrobes around the world. It was
worn by princesses and housemaids. A grand lady and Judy O'Grady unanimously
endued in similar dresses which differed only in the quality of fabric and
accessories (a lady combined the dress with a string of natural pearls (a
recommendation of Coco Chanel), Judy O'Grady settled for cheap beads (or got
along without jewelry).
LBD became not
only a popular fit for a particular time; it managed to remain almost unchanged
for decades. This dress is a unique universal outfit which remains relevant for
nearly a century. Chanel's advice is still on the front burner: a little black dress
is a staple of every woman's wardrobe. If you own one, no need to worry - in every
moment of your life you would look stylish and according to the latest fashion craze.
Of course, a
modern little black dress somewhat differs from a classical model offered by Coco
Chanel. Today it may not have sleeves or pouch over the hips. Decorative embroidery
also passed into oblivion. The skirts became versatile - from puffball to tight
and sheath. Little black dresses acquired decolettes, shoulder straps, and waistbands.
But no matter what happens to them, little black dresses retain their main idea
- they express modernity, elegance and handiness.
A little black
dress is not as simple as it seems to be. Its allure is mainly in that the dress
itself is consigned to the sidelines. When a woman wears a little black dress, someone
hardly admires the designer's skill, but it is that woman who becomes a picture,
and a dress is only a frame. And as the «frame» does not draw attention of the connoisseur,
this attention is drawn to the «picture» itself. And this is where the secret
lies - all the disadvantages of a little black dress are hidden here.
The
principal «disadvantage» of LBD is the necessity for wearer to be in good
shape. Unsightly legs -and this dress
becomes a taboo. Figure problems (extra weight) - and forget about this garment.
Unhealthy skin - and the black color would only emphasize its defects.
It is no
exaggeration to say that a little black dress stimulated the development of different
spheres of knowledge and industry one would never have thought about before. To
wear LBD, women are ready to diet (there even exists Little Black Dress Diet -
a special diet for those who are eager to wear this kind of dress) which
stimulates the development of the food processing. The need for healthy skin for
the little black wearers gave rise to an unparalleled upturn in cosmetology and
perfume industry. The length of the dress and demand for shapely legs immediately
promoted hair removal (try to imagine hairy legs under a little black dress and
you would see who has run into money after Coco Chanel introduced her creation
into the fashion). The list may become too long.
A little black
dress affects every sphere of our lives - from our refrigerator contents up to car
industry. This dress is a powerful illustration of the statement that fashion can
change the life of civilizations. A little black dress has not finished its triumphant
parade yet. It keeps on changing and transforming our lives.
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