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 Selective or niche perfumery is alternative to mass
perfume production. Niche is limited by the clientele and therefore with a
limited sale range, thus the goal of niche houses is not to sell as much as
possible. Heavily-advertised elite perfumes by Yves Saint
Laurent, Chanel or Christian Dior, though certainly classifies as luxury, and
is expensive, cannot be viewed as selective, genuine niche perfumes are not
sold on every corner, are not advertised in glossy magazines and, despite their
high cost, are not made for profit. What is the difference between selective
perfumery and expensive elite fragrances? Art and creativity is on the first
place in niche perfumery, and as it applies to any other kind of arts, there is
a possibility that a niche perfume creation will not be recognized and
accepted. However, regardless of the risk, niche houses are appearing just like
mushrooms after the rain because people, tired of mass perfume production, wish
to have an uncommon and, if possible, personal fragrance.
The use of natural components is the main feature of
niche perfumery. Essences, oils and natural aphrodisiacs turn selectives
in
something more than simply perfume. This is aromatherapy for gourmets.
The
secret is that natural aromatic substances influence not only our nose,
but
also our brain. Depending on their aim, they can cause arousal or
complete
relaxation. This is also due to the fact, that any natural substance is
far
more complicated, than an artificial one, it stays longer on the skin
and shows
different sides in every person.
Niche perfume houses do not recognize advertising,
apart from, perhaps, magazine articles and interviews in prominent
media. For
them, the best ad is their good reputation. Instead of loud marketing
companies
with the Hollywood star participation selective makers draw the
customer's
attention with the help of beautiful legends about the brand development
or the
idea of regular aroma origin.
Unusual aromas are another pleasant quality of the
selectives. Concentrated, heavy and sometimes even shocking scents, like
resin
or wet asphalt, make a lot of people detest niche perfumery, but no one
can say
it's not popular. It is up to the point for those, who want to be
extravagant
and distinguished from the crowd of standard perfume - wearers. That is
why
niche perfumery is in high demand between the people of creative
professions.
Though, according to the producers, shocking is not
the main purpose of these scents. Certain series of the selectives have
pleasant and nostalgic scents, like the scents of sweet pies, cocoa, hay
or
ice-cream.
Selective perfumes are distributed in strictly bounded
quantity and only in specialized shops. Though, perfumers, who work with
selectives, do not want to make their brands popular. Vice versa, their
aim is
exclusiveness, which is by definition cannot be massive.
Selective can be classified into three major groups:
Vintage
This is the most popular trend in selective perfumery.
These perfumes carry us in the far old times back to rich perfume
traditions.
Maybe, in the context of modern traditions they smell very old fashion,
though
they these charm and chic, which modern day novelties can't sound off.
Nominal Perfumes
Nominal perfumes are named for their creators and
covered with legends.
Monoscents
This is the simplest type of selective scents based on
a single note. With the help of this selective type anybody can solo mix
a
inimitable bouquet from several monoscents. And these can be as natural
aromas
like new-mown grass, as classical oils like sandal, rose or jasmine.
Some
experts also include epatage scents in this category. Epatage scents are
especially
popular between youngsters. Strawberry shake, vanilla ice or shoe cream
are
typical representatives of this category. Many specialists do not admit
these
aromas perfumes: these are rather original jokes or the way to draw
attention.
The majority of selective brands originate from
France, famous for its rich perfume traditions. These aromas generally
stand
out by special exquisiteness and complex composition. French brands are
mostly
requested by sophisticated connoisseurs and fragrances collectors. Those
who
are being acquainted with niche perfumes specialists recommend to glance
at
English aromas: they stand out by originality but are simpler to
understand.
American selectives are famous for non-perfume scents: instead of
flowers or
fruits they smell like fresh newspapers or bookshelves.
Furthermore, USA perfumes have specially disrupted
classical aroma pyramid: it consists of high notes only. But in Arabian
countries where niche perfume is enormously popular such experiments are
not
valued. Local aromas are mostly deeper and sweeter, and the technology
of their
production is highly secured: the composition is not revealed in
fragrance
annotations even. But in contrast to European analogues, East phials are
decorated rather catchy, even with use of gold and gems.
Some niche houses are more popular than the others and
have no need to balance between the art and profit. Some of those are
the
houses of Annick Diptyque, Erno Laszlo, Il Profumo, Maitre Parfumeur et
Gantier, Frederic Malle, Jo Malone, Amouage, E.Coudray, Parfums de
Rosine,
Annick Goutal, Miller Harris, Montale, Penhaligon, Serge Lutens.
The prices for selective perfumery start at $100 and go
as high as $3000. The price depends on the type and occurrence of the
scent,
the value of its ingredients, the price of the bottle and packaging, as
some
phials can be pretty expensive.
Another feature of selective fragrances is that they
are not primarily customer-oriented as perfumers compose the scents
based on
their own taste and your vision. That's a recipe for the most highly
sought
after selective fragrances in the world.
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