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Selective Perfumery: the Fragrance of Your Dreams

Sunday, 04 April 2010

selective perfumerySelective or niche perfumery is alternative to mass perfume production. Niche is limited by the clientele and therefore with a limited sale range, thus the goal of niche houses is not to sell as much as possible. Heavily-advertised elite perfumes by Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel or Christian Dior, though certainly classifies as luxury, and is expensive, cannot be viewed as selective, genuine niche perfumes are not sold on every corner, are not advertised in glossy magazines and, despite their high cost, are not made for profit. What is the difference between selective perfumery and expensive elite fragrances? Art and creativity is on the first place in niche perfumery, and as it applies to any other kind of arts, there is a possibility that a niche perfume creation will not be recognized and accepted. However, regardless of the risk, niche houses are appearing just like mushrooms after the rain because people, tired of mass perfume production, wish to have an uncommon and, if possible, personal fragrance.

The use of natural components is the main feature of niche perfumery. Essences, oils and natural aphrodisiacs turn selectives in something more than simply perfume. This is aromatherapy for gourmets. The secret is that natural aromatic substances influence not only our nose, but also our brain. Depending on their aim, they can cause arousal or complete relaxation. This is also due to the fact, that any natural substance is far more complicated, than an artificial one, it stays longer on the skin and shows different sides in every person.

Niche perfume houses do not recognize advertising, apart from, perhaps, magazine articles and interviews in prominent media. For them, the best ad is their good reputation. Instead of loud marketing companies with the Hollywood star participation selective makers draw the customer's attention with the help of beautiful legends about the brand development or the idea of regular aroma origin.

Unusual aromas are another pleasant quality of the selectives. Concentrated, heavy and sometimes even shocking scents, like resin or wet asphalt, make a lot of people detest niche perfumery, but no one can say it's not popular. It is up to the point for those, who want to be extravagant and distinguished from the crowd of standard perfume - wearers. That is why niche perfumery is in high demand between the people of creative professions.

Though, according to the producers, shocking is not the main purpose of these scents. Certain series of the selectives have pleasant and nostalgic scents, like the scents of sweet pies, cocoa, hay or ice-cream.

Selective perfumes are distributed in strictly bounded quantity and only in specialized shops. Though, perfumers, who work with selectives, do not want to make their brands popular. Vice versa, their aim is exclusiveness, which is by definition cannot be massive.

Selective can be classified into three major groups:

Vintage

This is the most popular trend in selective perfumery. These perfumes carry us in the far old times back to rich perfume traditions. Maybe, in the context of modern traditions they smell very old fashion, though they these charm and chic, which modern day novelties can't sound off.

Nominal Perfumes

Nominal perfumes are named for their creators and covered with legends.

Monoscents

This is the simplest type of selective scents based on a single note. With the help of this selective type anybody can solo mix a inimitable bouquet from several monoscents. And these can be as natural aromas like new-mown grass, as classical oils like sandal, rose or jasmine. Some experts also include epatage scents in this category. Epatage scents are especially popular between youngsters. Strawberry shake, vanilla ice or shoe cream are typical representatives of this category. Many specialists do not admit these aromas perfumes: these are rather original jokes or the way to draw attention.

The majority of selective brands originate from France, famous for its rich perfume traditions. These aromas generally stand out by special exquisiteness and complex composition. French brands are mostly requested by sophisticated connoisseurs and fragrances collectors. Those who are being acquainted with niche perfumes specialists recommend to glance at English aromas: they stand out by originality but are simpler to understand. American selectives are famous for non-perfume scents: instead of flowers or fruits they smell like fresh newspapers or bookshelves.

Furthermore, USA perfumes have specially disrupted classical aroma pyramid: it consists of high notes only. But in Arabian countries where niche perfume is enormously popular such experiments are not valued. Local aromas are mostly deeper and sweeter, and the technology of their production is highly secured: the composition is not revealed in fragrance annotations even. But in contrast to European analogues, East phials are decorated rather catchy, even with use of gold and gems.

Some niche houses are more popular than the others and have no need to balance between the art and profit. Some of those are the houses of Annick Diptyque, Erno Laszlo, Il Profumo, Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, Frederic Malle, Jo Malone, Amouage, E.Coudray, Parfums de Rosine, Annick Goutal, Miller Harris, Montale, Penhaligon, Serge Lutens.

The prices for selective perfumery start at $100 and go as high as $3000. The price depends on the type and occurrence of the scent, the value of its ingredients, the price of the bottle and packaging, as some phials can be pretty expensive.

Another feature of selective fragrances is that they are not primarily customer-oriented as perfumers compose the scents based on their own taste and your vision. That's a recipe for the most highly sought after selective fragrances in the world.

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