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 The Insolence
fragrance was created by Guerlain, a brand with a long history of legendary
perfumes. Though Insolence was launched
recently, in 2006, it has gained phenomenal popularity almost immediately.
Despite a very young age - only three years - Guerlain Insolence may well claim
the title of one of the most famous fragrances in the world or at least one of
the finest specimens of powdery perfumes.
The
fragrance was created by Maurice Roucel, the «author» of a number of popular
scents, including Gucci Envy, Donna Karan Be Delicious, Roberto Cavalli Oro, and
Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist. Guerlain Insolence is a totally traditional fragrance,
despite its rather original composition; In a break away from the traditional
pyramid structure, Insolence is contructed around the first olfactive spiral.
Rather than a slow progression from head to base, the notes spiral and continue
to circulate so that your favourite notes remain prominent from flight to
finish. However, this approach is not revolutionary - the famous Chanel Allure
was built using the same «coil principle». However, there is a delicate and
soft violet waiting for you in the top notes, followed by red-fruits cocktail
with raspberry domination. The heart is floral-sweet, composed of violet, rose,
and orange blossom. At the end, sweet raisins and balsams together have joined
iris and Tonka bean to round the composition.
Although traditionally
the fragrances featuring violet notes are considered to be «adult», Guerlain
Insolence from the onset was marketed as new bold fragrance for young women. The
face of perfume is the movie star Hilary Swank, the Oscar-winner for the main
role in the 'Million Dollar Baby' film. This move was intended to attract young
women and girls, and it worked! This perfume surprised the Guerlain perfumes
fans, as it is rather unusual, modern and fruity sweet. But Guerlain was not
afraid to surprise, and even provoke. The design of the half-sphere bottle for
Guerlain Insolence, decorated with a large ornamental rose, was developed by
the famous Serge Mansau who designed the exquisite bottles for the famous
perfume and cosmetics brands including Kenzo, Rochas, Escada, and Faberlic to
name a few.
However, the
seeming novelty of Guerlain Insolence is quite misleading, as the fragrance subtly
evokes a vintage Guerlain scent, L'Apres Ondee, created back in 1906. In Roucel's words,
Insolence is his answer to Guerlain's own pearl, Apres l'Ondee, which the
perfumer names to be among his absolute favourite fragrances. Once the berry
fizz of Insolence begins to dissipate, the cold, transparent flower--half-iris,
half-violet--of Apres l'Ondee begins to take form. Here, Roucel again adds his
own special touch-a languid, indolic shimmer of orange blossom. Its melting
warmth is underscored with a green note, which lends it a fresh touch.
Insolence
is a curious study of contrasts. Upon the first inhale, the fragrance bursts into
shades of Barbie doll pink, which would no doubt surprise a die-hard Guerlain
lover. However, after a wild strawberry tinged 15 minutes, the composition
pirouettes into an elegant heart dominated by violet, which rests on a creamy
base of musk and woods. Overall, the top notes of Insolence are the least
Guerlain aspect of the perfume. After all, the classical fragrances do not
feature heavy fruit notes, which as Insolence's creator Maurice Roucel
explained, is due to the fact that they were not considered sophisticated. A
touch of peach in Mitsouko or a drizzle of plum liquor in Parure is the most
one can expect from the classics. On the other hand, the hot strawberry of
Insolence is vivid and persistent.
Insolence
is plush and curvy, revealing the seductive themes that Roucel explored in his
other fragrances, from Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur to Rochas Tocade. The
parfum concentration especially heightens the seductive richness of musk and
woods, while the Eau de Toilette remains more transparent. In either
concentration, the fragrance is remarkably tenacious, with a strong and
distinctive sillage.
In the
three years that passed after its initial presentation, Guerlain Insolence has
become one of the most popular Guerlain fragrances, and, traditionally, many
flanking products exploiting the success of the original concept were launched,
including My Insolence, Insolence Eau de Parfum and Insolence Eau Glacee
released earlier this year.
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