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Latest Articles - Luxury

Alexandrite – a Gem for Kings

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Guerlain Jicky: Ancient Pre-Image Of Modern Aroma

Thursday, 21 January 2010

guerlain jickyGuerlain Jicky House, the legendary of perfume industry was founded in 1828 by Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain. Initially Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain created special perfume products for each customer selling personal care items supplied from the neighboring England, though later on he made his mind to create his own perfume line creating exclusive fragrances for many personalities. And soon after, he became the official provider for the royal families in Europe. After the death of Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain, the Guerlain House was charged by his son Aimé who entered into the history of the world perfume thanks to Jicky fragrance created in 1889 that became the pre-image of many modern fragrances. Actually Jicky created by Aimé Guerlain appeared to be the first «contemporary» perfume.

There are two versions that explain why Aimé Guerlain decided to call it its debute Jicky, no way other. The first version is the romantic love story on how the 27-year old Guerlain got friends with a young British lady called Jicky by him. After the death of his mother, the heir of the perfumery empire had to come back to Paris, lonely, since the cold English woman shared his feelings and preferred in the native Great Britain. Years after with the aim to honor his beloved, Aimé Guerlain called his first fragrance Jicky, staying an old bachelor who devoted his heart to the only lady. There is more prosaic version of origin of Guerlain Jicky. Jicky was the nickname of the nephew to Aimé, Jacques Guerlain, the great-to-be perfumer, who presented to the world such iconic fragrances as Guerlain Mitsouko, L'Heure Bleue and Shalimar. Long before his nephew who turned into the huge and the most talented perfumers, Aimé Guerlain also contributed a lot to create the revolutionary item, in particular, he built up his debit scent on unique notes that has never been used in perfumery before.

Until Jicky appeared, the perfumers living in the end of the XIX century preferred plain and easily recognizable compositions with pure flowery notes of rose, jasmine and lavender. At that time the fragrance was not worn applied onto the skin but onto the handkerchief to keep the scent for longer time. Jicky grew to become the first fragrance throughout the perfume history where the natural ingredients were nicely blended with synthetic ones. The basic perfume blends of the debut fragrance by Aimé Guerlain included synthetic notes of coumarin created shortly before he was born and notes of vanilla blended with the intensive and great note of zibet. Yet, Guerlain Jicky became the first «multifaceted» scent with ingredients that were hard to recognize unlike those of other scents.

Guerlain Jicky fragrance is perfectly the pre-image of the brand new unisex scents when the scent composition does not actually include traditional blends of notes that are typical to women fragrances. Therefore, within the first several years as the scent was marketed, it was mostly used by men since the blend of «manly» notes and austere square shape of the bottle cried that the perfume was created for men. Moreover, Aimé Guerlain intended to use the synthesized note of coumarin to launch the perfume for men, though later he decided against it in favor of Jicky. The women appreciated and loved the perfume by Aimé Guerlain some time later, in the beginning of the XX century when the iconic scents by Jacques Guerlain were openly launched being revolutionary to turn the concepts about perfume for women upside down and was one of the perfumers who introduced and set trend for the original and spicy scents.

When Aimé Guerlain evaluated the success of Guerlain Jicky with men, he proceeded to creation of the true manly scent for men called Mouchoir de Monsieur, based on the unique perfume blend of Jicky though exclusively launched for the strong and brave men.

The original Guerlain Jicky was opened with the citric accord of lemon, bergamot, tangerine, and lavender the heart of the scent includes the notes of coumarin, rosemary and sweet basil, and the blend of intensive aroma of sandal, opopanax, broad bean tonka and iris. Guerlain Jicky always made a woman promising, seductive and notable, since the scent made by Aimé Guerlain was such intensive, rich and gorgeous.

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