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Revolution is in Vogue!

Sunday, 19 April 2009

revolution vogueOverseas Newtonian apple and even the Mendelian vodka, so dear to Russian hearts, is nothing to compare with true red innovations that turned the world inside out. The point is great discoveries in the fashion world.

A small story on how a man and a female failed to share a square of cloth

No one innovation is famous if it does not go with the name of the inventor. This story rose in the sixties of the past century. Mary Quaint, daffy but quite pragmatic American lady loved looking at girls strolling along the streets. London ladies were at ease to expose their knees and Mary did not hesitate to duplicate their careless dressing and she took what she saw on the street and turned it into the irreverent, youthful, trim look called Mod. This time was also famous for the first skirt as short as overknee by Andre Courreges, the designer from France. Once there were even shots to define which one first made women and other people happy. However, improvised battle of scissors was vain. It seems that pioneers were courage ladies of fashion from Chelsea.

Then the concepts and idea of women's sexuality experienced sea changes. The accents were paid below the waist, they changed their step, yet a woman became more independent, determined and individual in spite of the obvious simplicity. Moreover, it seems that the ideal woman of sixties did not sit at all, and you try to sit down if you wear such a narrow band of fabric! Dashing ladies need not to sit. That was the time of young, vigorous and always progressing generation.

And just by the seventies skirts «crawled» downward and formed very boring «midi» skirts at the breakdown of the decade. Luckily, the American society opposed to such an impudent incursion of cloth into newly won terrains to happily «intake» a new pill from Mrs. Quaint - «hot pants», that is combination of shorts and skirt adopted from the street casual fashion under the old tradition.

However, the classic style of mini-skirt was sitting tight and was becoming shorter and shorter by time. Recently it was acknowledged as the main fashion-icon of England, by the totals of the Internet site «Icons».

History facts on the high thing

The real men's wardrobe garment is concerned here, namely shoes on high heels. Do not consider this as a practical joke but only the statement of fact. Throughout the millennium history of the Earth development men managed to experience higher positions than women.

And the Egyptians became the pioneers in this technique to stay elevated over the ground. And these people were not pharaohs but quite the reverse. The Egyptian peasants used to wear high-heeled shoes to ease walking on the loose ground they cultivated. And in XII century heels helped the Mongolians to remain sitting on the saddle while riding.  And afterward the Europeans followed them.

The Sun King Louis XIV was famous for his love to decorate himself, the royal person, and could not help neglecting such an object that is very comfortable to hide his height, approximately 5'5, that therewith gives him more majesty and stature. In addition, no one but him was allowed to wear shoes with heels of red color.

It is believed that the genius Leonardo da Vinci had his finger in this pie as well who had no special liking for women, indeed. However, this wizard went ahead the time again, and his invention got current only more than two centuries later.

When ladies finally realized advantages and style of hopping off, the chase of inches triggered.  Yet, in the end of XVII century so high heels were in vogue that poor women could walk only by the help of sticks. Around the century XVIII the heel height reached 10 to 12 cm but the average shoe size was not larger than 32 (U.K. size 3), thus women were still on their tip-toe. The French Revolution at one with doctors and philosophers cut the fashionmongers down to sizes; nevertheless the progress in industry reaved them from earth to high heavens.

What is marked, the XX century became the real breakthrough in the shoe making sphere.  After so much popular spike invented by Salvatore Ferragamo, women felt opportune to conquer the whole world. Christian Louboutin, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga and, sure enough, the legend Manolo Blahnik, all but a sexual fetish of all women on the Earth, here they are - the best friends of new-day couture. And how come it is in vogue? Only because some kind of farmers found that uncomfortable to ridge. Can you imagine that?!

Class struggle

We all know that customary outfit extremely comfortable but assigned for a particular class of employees, won at fashionable stages and found its niche in haute couture. And it's a real story of Cinderella.

It was XVI century when this bluestocking fell into vogue at the fancy Olympus. Then India initiated exporting of cloths from cotton fabric made and in indigo color dyed. The outfit was quite popular with sailors who used to cut too long trouser legs to math their height.

First good jeans came up in Genoa to be as work cloth for the same sailors. Yet, in the year 1853 the legendary and recognizable Levi Strauss with the previous plain name Leob that time which, however, did not prevent him from turning the fashion world upside down, started wholesale trade with jeans attire.

The mode to wear jeans was adopted by cowboys and later on by military men taking heart from the example of sailors and workers, and they wore jeans off duty.  Wrangler and Lee initiated bid for the market share at the time.

The youth showed off in the fiftieth, though. As the youth wear jeans attain aura of sexuality and rebel character. Then they symbolize adolescent shouts of protest and riot without any obvious excuses. Several schools in America banned the manner to wear jeans for lessons, nevertheless the jeans pandemic is not feasible to stop. Jeans look is popularized by movie celebrities as James Dean, Marlon Brando and the King Elvis himself. That was such a temptation nobody could resist.

In the period of sixtieth jeans get larger in width, they are decorated with applications and appear careless and untidy enough, and the time of hippy comes.

The dreamboat of the average Soviet citizen was jeans. Jeans were scarcely available for ordinary people, and only can be acquired by backstairs influence for a fortune paid to black marketer. In a while jeans became not only prerogative of the wealthy people but for middlebrows as well.

Since 80s jeans fell to the status of trend garment. And couturiers finally paid their attention to jeans. In the year 1986 people all over the world enjoyed debut of stone-washed denim and since that time designer did whatever they liked with the traditional blue denim. It is squeezed, washed, rubbed, dyed, torn, decorated with embroidery and combined with other fabric. Denim fluctuates on the edge of fashion preferences, high either low it is unavoidably included in every collections and, surely, in every wardrobe.

Undressing with erotic elements

Once female nakedness was hidden under the mammoth skin, later on under brocade and velvet, the weaker sex has tried all their best to strip themselves again. Bulgy and uncomfortable undergarment hardly managed to match every now and then open shoulders and décolleté line and rapidly shortening skirts. Yet, women go active day by day. Tennis, riding and, sure enough, swimming, all this stuff... The history of bathing costumes was fairly boring until bikini appears. Not long ago these 4 triangles of cloth celebrated seventy-year anniversary however since that time nobody created another way to look almost naked and appear properly. 

A good start was initiated by Louis Reard, Swiss engineer-designer by vocation, at the same time heir of the linen boutique in Paris. Once he observed women at the beaches trying to roll up bathing dress edges to expose more body to the sun. And it took him only 70 cm cloth to hide what it should be hidden.

The name of this revolutionary invention was generously granted to Louis by the American government that 4 days after the presentation of this new product in the Molinar swimming pool dated July 5, 1946, triggered first testing of nuclear weapon in peacetime at the Pacific atoll named Bikini, in Micronesia.

At first bikini seemed to be too provocative, yet churches in Italy and Spain forbade this garment, but as always Hollywood relived. Such stunning beauties like Brigitte Bardot, Marilyn Monroe, Sophia Loren actively advocated such an outspoken attire. And under their girdle the society gave up. Motivated to look though a bit like movie stars, girls wore those little and cute triangles. However, it happened only in the early 50s.

Since that time bikini is in vogue and great popularity and from the seventieth it has been shortened in size getting more and more open and provocative.

Pants stolen!

The main breakthrough of women in the course of emancipation is that they won the right to wear a traditional men's garment, - pants.  How bravely the feminists struggled for this particular symbol of men's power! However poor American ladies did not realize that women wore pants long before Christ. Ancient Chinese women were supposed to wear pants under the kimono in the 6th millennium B.C.

Though, the origin and evolution of pants is customarily associated with riding.  To make riding more comfortable and with the purpose to saddle and dismount, the nomadic tribes invented the prototype of modern trousers approximately three thousand years ago. And gradually trousers from baggy and shapeless ‘parachutes' turned into something like what we are used to observe today, and moved to wardrobes of aristocrats. The length and width of trousers changed year by year, century to century but ladies were still far away from wearing pants.

And only in XX century the pants as the garment of women cloth was mentioned. And Coco Chanel, besides her innumerable merits, made the pants popular among ladies as well as the element of women wear. And again, stars had their hands in it. Marlene Dietrich and Katharine Hepburn, who greatly loved their pictures in pants, for good and all approved the right of women for this garment.

Since that time there are endless discussions are held to solve whether women in trousers are feminine like, and whether men in skirts look manly; the skirts for men are regularly plugged by the fashion hooligans like Jean Paul Gaultier and Vivienne Westwood; yet, if the women are really comfortable wearing pants or it is just a trick to stay on the same level with men. But the fact says that women steadily popularized this traditionally men's wear and they are not willing to lose this right. Thus, men just have to accept it and follow their example. And finally, a skirt is also very comfortable garment, though.

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