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 When we say
«shawl», we imagine a cold frosty winter, evenings by the fireplace in the cozy
countryside house and a beautiful woman with a warm shawl on her head. But then
summer comes, and she drops it on her shoulders, and the shawl, now
long-fringed and decorated with big bright flowers, attracts numerous admirers.
It seems that the shawl is a traditional Russian accessory, since to survive
the inclement snowy Russian winter one has to be ingenious in protecting
oneself from the hard frost. Actually, shawl is not Russian at all. They
originated in the East, and the world joined in the admiration for this light
and warm wrap.
Going East
What would
the Europeans do, if the Indian artisans didn't give them a brilliant idea that
one needs to get back to the antique traditions and wrap oneself in a big
beautiful wrap? The first shawls, or «shals», were part of traditional Persian
costume, worn by both males and females. Shawls were also part of the
traditional male costume in Kashmir, which was probably introduced via
assimilation to Persian culture. They were woven in extremely fine woollen
twill, some were even said to be so fine as to fit through a ring. They could
be in one colour only, woven in different colours (called tilikar), ornately woven
or embroidered (called ameli).
First
shawls - square-shaped wraps which were folded to form a triangle and wrapped
around the head thus completely hiding the body under heavy and luxurious
Indian fabrics - were manufactured in Kasmir, in the XV-th century. A traditional
Indian shawl was made from pashminas, fine, but very warm fabrics. Simple
pashminas were worn even by shepherds, but soon this wrap was a favorite of the
royal persons and became hardly accessible for mortals. Pashminas were embroidered
with gold, decorated with a long fringe and precious stones. This was a truly
royal gift presented to the most distinguished guests.
In the
early XIX-th century, the shawl has conquered Europe. The grand conquest began
with... the Emperor Napoleon who after the invasion of Egypt was presented with a
lush shawl in the Oriental style, which, upon return to France, he handed over
to his lover, Empress Josephine. She was so fascinated with the oriental wrap that
soon shawls were manufactured all over France.
Silk shawls
with fringes, made in China, were available by the first decade of the XIX-th
century. Ones with embroidery and fringes were available in Europe and the
Americas by 1820. The importance of these shawls in fashionable women's
wardrobes declined between 1865 and 1870 in Western culture. However, they became
part of folk dress in a number of places including Germany, the Near East,
various parts of Latin America, and Spain where they became a part of gypsy
dress especially in Andalusia and Madrid.
Around this
time, the production of shawls commenced in Russia. The earliest Russian shawls
much imitated their Indian counterparts in shape and coloring. Later the Indian
colors were combined with the traditional Russian floral motives. The prints on
the shawls exploded with blossoming big or small flowers. This ornament was
used on the entire surface of the shawls or along the margins. The Orenburg shawls,
celebrated even in songs, were very well known throughout the world, and year
after year received awards at world exhibitions.
Casual Wear
Two
centuries later, shape and purpose of the shawls were almost the same. Today, wool
shawls and pashminas are used for warmth, while silk and chiffon shawls remain stylish
accessories. Once again, the world is crazy about the Russian motives, and the
ethnic styles had never left the catwalks. Suffice it to mention the names of designers
who are currently producing shawls to prove that this wrap is not passee, and the
shawl is actually might be only approaching its heyday.
For several
seasons, Alexander McQueen offered silk shawls with skull motifs, and he was
not the only fan of this design. A leopard-printed chiffon shawl by Louis
Vuitton has become a hit and a favorite accessory of many celebrities. A scarf by Carolina Herrera brings us back to
the traditional manner of wearing it - tying tightly around the neck.
You
shouldn't, however, confuse a shawl with a stole. This colorful oriental
accessory should be recognized by its traditional triangle shape, which sets it
apart from other wraps.
The functionality
of shawls is bordering on unlimited. If worn on the shoulders, shawl is excellent
for masking chubby or emaciated arms in a revealing dress, dressing up drab
apparel, adding volume to flimsy silhouette and draping full breast. Silk, chiffon
or organza shawls or pashminas with oriental or traditional Russian prints,
bearing the logo of the legendary brand, worn around the head or on the
shoulders, will immediately transform the simplest outfit into dazzling,
stylish and original attire.
If you
think shawl is outdated, deserving only to be forsaken in the depth of your grandmother's
chest, flip through the glossy magazines and you will see that this triangle-shaped
wrap is donned by the famous models, actresses, and singers. Do you need
another reason to take the lead from the stars?
Inessa Hyder
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