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Men's Coats: Comeback in Fashion

Saturday, 20 March 2010

mens coatA philosopher once said that history moves in circles. Another philosopher added that it moves in a spiral: one always returns to the preceding position, but on a higher level. Men's coats trends prove this assumption. If you watched The Adventures of Sherlock Holmes, you remember the cape coat, donned by Mr. Holmes. Now, it's back! And a belted trench coat that Arthur Hastings wore ever so gracefully (Hugh Frazier)? It's back, too. What about the traditional gentleman's coat with a fur collar, preferred by Hercules Poirot (David Suchet)? It's in again.

However, men's coats have never been as stylistically variable as women's, and are often made of a more limited variety of materials; i.e., those considered more rugged or «manly». Thus, men's coats are usually made of leather, wool, and fur.

One of the most popular men's coats is the trench-style overcoat. These long coats were designed to go over a gentleman's outer clothing and protect it from the elements, as well as to keep the wearer warm. Although they've long been in use across most of the world, the best trench coats are generally the ones manufactured for the chilly climes of Europe and Scandinavia. They can come in single- and double-breasted varieties, and usually include a belt. A variety of cuts and colors are available, and the coats are often made of wool.

Leather coats are also nice and toasty, and if they're properly cared for, can last for a long time. They vary from full leather to softer suede types, including shearling coats, which are made from the skins of lambs shorn only once. Styles vary from bomber jackets to thigh-length coats. Since leather is easy to dye, these coats can come in a variety of colors. Many leather coats are left a rich, natural brown or caramel color, though the many-zipped motorcycle jacket, one of the most popular styles of men's leather coat, generally comes in black. Leather is a particular suitable material for motorcycle riders, since it's durable and protects the wearer from «road rash» in the event of an accident.

Although furs require special care to last for more than a generation or so, you can find many acceptable fur coats out there. Persian Lambs, which are composed of a tightly curled, silky black wool, are to be found in many clothing stores. Some have well-padded wide shoulders and a tight waist, relics of the '30s and '40s swing era, but you can find plenty with a straighter, more generous cut. A similar coat is the Russian Broadtail, which tends to be quite a bit more expensive. The fur is softer than that in a Persian lamb, with a flatter, swirled texture. Mouton coats are made from a very dense fur, usually of a chestnut color, that can easily be mistaken for faux fur.

Military coats and jackets are fun. They're also easy to find at any decent military surplus store. The colors aren't too wild - they vary from khaki to olive drab to black - but if you're looking for an inexpensive, warm coat, these are hard to beat. Army jackets and overcoats are particularly common, and being military, they come with all sorts of extra pockets, attachments, buttons, buckles, and doodads. Navy pea coats are less common, but are especially warm; these black waist-length jackets are usually made of dense wool.

The classic men's plaid wool coat, whether short or long, gives even the most diehard urban dweller the look of a rugged outdoorsman. The perfect item to wear either when hiking outdoors or struggling through a snowy street, it never ages. The coat your grandfather would have worn is just as stylish today. And in fact, if you have the coat your grandfather wore, you can wear it yourself with pride. The classic plaid wool coat never goes out of style in the city or the country.

The traditional coat is in a dark red plaid, hip length and boxy. It might have breast pockets that button. A Pendleton, popular from the 1940s and still made today, came in a few different weights and featured hip flap pockets and a wide lapel. Pendleton used several plaids - dark green, blue and even yellow, as well as a few shades of red. But for most men, the deep red or even rich green is the plaid of choice.

Among the few fashion essentials every gentleman should own, designer coats for men rank high. If hiked-up price tags are swimming before your eyes and keeping your guard up, think again: These days, it's surprisingly easy to score designer products at reasonable prices. At the same time, a high-quality coat is an investment piece that should ideally last for years, so it's also important to take its construction and fit into account when shopping.

Much like a quality leather belt or wallet, the right coat will endure over time. It has the potential to last you for years, provided your size does not change, and if its style is classic enough, it will never lose relevance. The right coat will also be reliable - the one you turn to whenever the weather wreaks havoc with your day or requires an extra layer of warmth. It will be versatile and timeless, pairing well with everything from rugged denim and boots to dress slacks and shiny shoes.

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